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Edward Joesting, author of a very readable history of the island that was my constant companion on this trip, called it “the separate kingdom” and so it feels ”particularly North Shore”.

In a long weekend spent exploring the North Shore, from Kilauea Point Wildlife Refuge to Ha’ena at the end of the road, I came to understand what she meant: The island’s extraordinary beauty and its people’s cheerful resilience both speak louder than any slogan. It is a place in touch with its history; Hawaiian language speakers on Kauai and nearby Ni’ihau to this day retain an old-style pronunciation, t’s for k’s.The next day, I checked out Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, great for walking and birdwatching as thousands of red-footed boobies, wedgetail shearwaters and other birds tend their chicks in the cliffs and on an offshore island.Later, I indulged in an in-room massage (privately arranged, ”there are a number of such services), nap and some time in the pool and hot tub. The World Tour surfer rookie is proving a force to be reckoned with, but when it comes to a bikini or one-piece swimsuit, she says, "I love my teeny tiny Billabong bikinis." Born May 24, 1987; Newport Beach, California. According to her O'Neill Girls profile: "During her down time she practices yoga, and you can always find her outdoors doing something fun whether it be paddleboarding, hiking, or playing a game of basketball with the boys." Born April 28, 1991; Sunset Beach, Oahu, Hawaii.From surf to snow, Erica has played every sport imaginable, but the 2012 WCT champ didn't get her own surfboard and start surfing until age 11. Earning her first sponsor at the age of 8, the fan favorite says about her surfing style: “When I surf I keep things natural and graceful and never try to force anything." Born 29 January 1988; Coolangatta, Australia.

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